[FAO] Alleppey’s Enchanted Water World

Alleppey's Enchanted Water World Alappuzha -- the name means "broad river" in Malayalam -- is famous for its backwaters, houseboats, boat races, temples and seafood. These attractions have earned it the moniker "Venice of the East." Founded in 1762 by Raja Keshavadasan, Diwan of the princely state of Travancore under Maharaja Raja Rama Varma, it is considered to be the oldest planned town in the region. This year Alappuzha, formerly known by its Anglicised name of Alleppey, celebrates its 250th anniversary. The famous travelers Pliny and Ptolemy of the 1st and 2nd centuries mentioned places like Purakkad or Barace in their classical works. In the middle ages, trade relations existed between Alappuzha and ancient Rome. Religion and culture flourished here under the later Chera Empire from the 9th to 12th century AD. It was the commercial metropolis of the erstwhile Travancore kingdom for more than a century. Early in the first decade of the 20th century, the then Viceroy Lord Curzon visited Alleppey, as it was then known to the British rulers. Impressed by the immense beauty of the place, he declared that this was indeed the "Venice of the East". The resemblance between the two cities in landscape, port, criss-crossing roads and the bridges across them, and the scenic coast might have elicited this comparison. Alappuzha was once the lone supplier of coir products, coconuts, coconut oil, pepper, tea, rubber, cardamom to the world markets before the establishment of the Cochin Port. The development of Cochin harbour in the last century marked the decline of Alappuzha market and port. However, in the last three decades, Alappuzha has reinvented herself as the hub of backwater tourism in the state. Alappuzha is also the access point for the popular annual Nehru Trophy Boat Race, held on the Punnamada Lake, near Alappuzha. Alappuzha provides a unique canvas to the traveller, where life revolves around water. Here there are few roads; only waterways. Though roads have been constructed in the last two decades, some areas are so enclosed by water that they are navigable only by boat and ferry. Houseboat cruises operating in these backwaters connect Alappuzha with Kumarakom and Cochin in the north and Kollam (formerly Quilon) to the south. Alappuzha's allure is not merely in its backwaters, but in the small islands protected by mud walls and paddyfields covered with water throughout the year. Kuttanad, the rice bowl of Kerala, is one of the few places in the earth where agriculture is carried out four to ten feet below sea level. These areas showcase indigenous agricultural engineering and remind the visitor of the famous dikes of Holland. We started on our much awaited houseboat journey in the breezy backwaters of Alappuzha. The crew of three warmly greeted us with a welcome drink of fresh juice. Soon, lunch was served. We rested for an hour as the boat was moored and watched kingfishers and cormorants. The houseboat was docked and anchored for the night at around 5:30 PM, when we were served tea and snacks. The authentic Kerala-style lunch and dinner we were served were delicious both in quality and quantity. The menu consisted of rice, fish (karimeen), chicken, chapati and vegetarian dishes. The cook notes beforehand your preference for the type of rice – the brown-husked Kerala Matta boiled rice or other south/ north Indian varieties. A Kerala houseboat is about 60 to 100 feet long and around 12 to 18 feet wide in the middle. House boats have fully furnished single, double and triple air-conditioned bedrooms, an exquisite sundeck, comfortable chairs, classy kitchen and toilet. There are separate restrooms for the boat crew. Traditional lanterns are used as lights. Some boats are equipped with solar power. A leisurely ride on a houseboat or a small snakeboat is enough for you to rejuvenate your holiday. Sailing on the gentle water is a lifetime experience. You pass by vibrantly painted houses located just a few steps away from your boat, with colourful clothes drying on clotheslines. You pass close enough to hear the alarmed clucking of chickens in their coops and to see women wading in waist-deep paddy fields. Fishermen row towards your houseboat hoping to sell their catch of fresh fish and crabs, caught right before your eyes. On the banks, you can glimpse the occasional temple or church, and shops and hospitals with small boats parked in front of them. It is a pleasure to escape the noise and pollution of urban life and listen to birdsong and the calls of children as they wave to your houseboat on their way to school. As evening sets in, young boys often sit at the edges of their homes, fishing for the evening meal. A famous saying goes about the children of Alappuzha: "Children learn to swim before they walk. They learn to row before they bicycle. They learn their first lessons from the school of fish." At sunset, the waters gleam with sunrays and take on a golden sheen. When the boats are docked for the night you can walk around the small villages and shops, meet the local people and see the traditional way of transportation in water. Indescribable are the views of sunrises and sunsets from islands covered with coconut trees. Dawn announces a hard practice session for rowers, who are trained vigorously by the Sports Authority of India Water Sports Centre (Alappuzha), in preparation for the National Games. We could feel the fresh air around the waterways. A traditional Kerala breakfast was served and we prepared for our return trip. Although Alappuzha is welcoming throughout the year, the best time for a visit is winter (temperatures range from 20°C to 32°C from October through March). The summer months (22°C to 35°C) are humid. The nearest airport is Kochi, located at a driving distance of 54 km (approximately 90 minutes). Malayalam is the most spoken language. Tamil, Hindi and English are also widely spoken.Rates can go up heavily in the peak season. Advance booking is advised. Boats may be rented for Rs. 8000 – Rs.12000 (for 4 adults and 4 kids) all inclusive for a one day / night tour (check in 12:00 noon to checkout 09:00am the next day). Check the quality of the boats before you select the one you like. It is worth paying a little more for better quality and service. A wide selection of scenic routes is available for houseboat cruises. Choose one that suits your budget and schedule. Houseboats are mainly based at Alleppey and Kumarakom. A one-night cruise may be too short. Daily backwater tours – ranging from one hour to a full day – are also available.To enjoy the best experience of narrow canals, hire an environment-friendly, hand-pulled canoe, as none of the houseboats can enter the narrow canals. A journey to the hearts of the estuaries of Kerala is a memorable experience for any tourist. This, the land of swaying coconut trees, emerald waters and blue skies, is aptly named 'God's Own Country'.

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